The Soma Nomaoi, designated as an Important Intangible Folk Cultural Property of Japan, is a traditional event passed down in the Hamadori region of Fukushima Prefecture with a history of over a thousand years. The sight of hundreds of mounted warriors clad in armor vividly revives the pageantry of the Sengoku period in the modern age and has long served as a spiritual pillar of the local community. This article explains the origins of the Soma Nomaoi and provides a full account of the grand ceremonies held over three days.
1. The Origin of Soma Nomaoi: Military Training of Taira no Masakado
The origin of the Soma Nomaoi festival dates back to the mid-Heian period. It is said to have begun when Taira no Masakado (also known as Soma Kojirō), the distant ancestor of the Soma clan, captured wild horses in the pastures of Koganegahara in Katsushika District, Shimōsa Province (present-day areas around Matsudo and Nagareyama in Chiba Prefecture) and used them as mock enemies for military training exercises. The ritual of dedicating the captured wild horses as sacred horses before the gods was handed down through generations of the Soma family as a sacred ceremony inheriting the traditions of the samurai class.
During the Meiji period, Nomaoi, an event held by the samurai class, faced a temporary threat to its continued existence, but the enthusiasm of local residents ensured that it was preserved, and the tradition has been passed down to this day.
2. The Grand Three-Day Ceremony
Soma Nomaoi is a grand festival that takes place over three days.
Day 1: Yoinori (Evening Mounting)
On the first day of the festival, preparations for the march and ceremonies for the main festival are held the following day.
• Procession Ceremony: This ritual is held at the three Soma shrines—Soma Ota Shrine, Odaka Shrine, and Nakamura Shrine—which enshrine Myoken, the tutelary deity of the Soma clan. Armored horsemen set out from their respective districts and head toward the festival grounds.
• Evening Horse Race: After the ritual purification of the racecourse, lightly armed horsemen wearing white headbands, field trousers, and surcoats mount their neighing horses and gallop across the grounds. This serves as a form of practice and warm-up for the following day’s main festival.
Day 2: Main Festival (Honmatsuri)
This main festival is the center of the festival.
• The Procession: Hundreds of mounted warriors clad in armor form ranks with battle flags on their backs and march toward the festival grounds at Hibari-ga-hara. Their gallant appearance vividly evokes the image of a war scene from the Sengoku period.
• Armor Horse Race: On a straight 1000-meter course, mounted warriors in full armor gallop at full speed. This is one of the most spectacular events, testing the horsemanship and spirit of the samurai.
• Sacred Banner Contest: The climax of the festival. Hundreds of mounted warriors compete to seize the sacred banner that soars into the sky along with fireworks. This is the most intense ritual of all, imbued with the sacred meaning of “grasping the divine.”
Day 3: Nomakake (Horse-Chasing Ceremony)
On the final day, the ritual that marks the origin of the Soma Nomaoi—“capturing wild horses”—is reenacted.
• Nomakake Ceremony: Young men dressed in white garments drive horses, captured the previous day, with their bare hands and dedicate them as sacred horses before the gods. This form has remained almost unchanged since the Edo period and is regarded as one of the most sacred rituals in the Soma Nomaoi festival.
3. Succession of Tradition and Prospects for the Future
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Soma Nomaoi has overcome unprecedented crises such as the Great East Japan Earthquake and the nuclear accident, and has continued to preserve its traditions. In recent years, the festival has continued to take on the challenge of sustainability in order to pass on its traditions to the future, including changing the event's timing to avoid extreme heat and responding to the declining birthrate and aging population.
This festival is not simply a historical reenactment, but will continue to live on in Soma as a symbol of the local community's pride and resilience in the face of adversity.
